PETO AS AN END DESTINATION?

PETO AS AN END DESTINATION?
Peto is not the average tourist’s intended objective.
Jane boards the packed to capacity narrow gauge train to Peto with its 1890s vintage wooden coaches that were still rolling in 1985. The toilet was a hole in the floor.

The adventure trip to Peto makes Peto worth while.

Twenty-five years ago Jane and I disembarked Mérida on the narrow gauge train for one of our most memorable Yucatan adventures…we still have the original time-tables and tickets.
We set off from Mérida aboard one of the last narrow gauge trains still operating in the world headed into an unknown realm departing for the end of the line.
Back then Peto enjoyed a thriving export economy based on chicle, used in chewing gum which was extracted from the sap of the towering zapote tree forest surrounding this jungle area and also wild bee’s honey.
Riding aboard that long forgotten relic of the past that made 6 scheduled stops where there was only a foot path from the jungle, the conductor told Jane and I that he had been working onboard this train 26 years and that we were the first foreigners to ride it all the way to the end of the line at Peto.
(Read more about the history of transportation in Yucatan on our web site page Yucatan Roadways.)
At Peto the entire train just pulled to a stop for the night in the serene city center blocking intersections.
We were in another world so quiet it made you want to whisper. This sleepy colonial hamlet was dimly lit by sparse incandescent street lamps while the faint aroma of spicy wood smoke from neighborhood cooking fires trailed through the pristine jungle scented evening air.
Occasionally a dog would bark or a distant car started that could be heard putt-putt-putting slowly along and then silenced. Tranquility was at its optimum here.
We dispersed on foot with the rest of our fellow passengers into the eerie dimness of Peto’s silent night unhindered by traffic save the occasional bicycle.
The first of the two hotels in town was fully booked and the second had but one room remaining…we took it. The night clerk proudly signed me in as Mr. John and went out to get us a bar of soap, something normally not included in the accommodations inventory.
My first impression of our startlingly stark room was that it must have been of pre-Mayan origins. The stacked stone structure known as mamposteria was in the evolutionary process of returning to the earth from which it had undoubtedly originated untold centuries beforehand. It appeared to be leaning in six directions at the time if that is at all possible.
In the corner of our primeval room stood a small battered gray baked enamel wash basin on an ornate antique metal stand undoubtedly forged by a blacksmith eons before. A single pipe dangled down from the ceiling with a garden spigot valve to fill the washbasin…there was no drain. We deduced that in order to discharge the wash water you merely pitched it out the barn door sized window that had no glass or screen, where the birds were free to flutter in and out. Some discretion was in order because of a make-shift movie theater set up next door where a bed sheet was stretched in the trees for the screen and several rows of wooden benches were placed directly beneath our window.
A single bare light bulb equipped with a pull string hung starkly at face level and our bed was a metal four-poster with a lumpy-bumpy mattress of questionable origins.
One toilet with no seat and a huge gate valve to flush it satisfied the needs of the entire hotel.
On a large spike in that bathroom, driven into the cement wall were neatly impaled quarter sections of the Diario de Yucatan newspaper; that was to be our toilet tissue.
This experience was not for the fainthearted luxury lover, but then this is what true adventures are made of. At least there was this one remaining lodging in Peto for us.
The years have passed and it was time to re-visit Peto again. As before, just the trip getting there would make Peto worth while.
Here is what the explorer and author John L. Stephens had to say about Peto in his 1842 classic book; Incidents of Travel in Yucatan;
Page 180 from volume 2
PETO;

Peto is the head of a department, of which Don Pio Periz was jefe politico. It was a well built town, with streets indicated, as at Mérida, by figures on the tops of houses. The church and convent were large and imposing edifices, and the living of the cura one of the most valuable in the church, being worth six of seven thousand dollars per annum.

(Also from Stephens 1842 book, volume 2, page 173 the reproduction of a Spanish map dating 1557 makes no mention of the existence of Peto.)

Look over our bike and bus route using the LUS second class bus that departs from the Noreste Bus Station located on Calle 67 between Calles 50 and 52 in Mérida). It took us on a scenic out of the tourist loop back country adventure route to Peto. Here is the map;
The following travel log story is told with captioned photos;
Consider this; all of the towns depicted on this map have daily public transit and most have several per day that will transport you and your bicycle to Mérida or many other destinations.
This is downtown Peto in 2008 where most street traffic is still un-motorized. Though the pace of life here is still unhurried, the noise level has skyrocketed and their export economy has changed from chicle and bee’s honey to migrant laborers who journey to the U.S. to bring back hard fought for green-back dollars.
Peto’s municipal market is still a family type enterprise as you can see here even a toddler gets into the act.
The streets of Peto speak volumes of the old and new where here a centuries old colonial dwelling houses a store hawking numerous plastic Chinese imports.
Little Peto has been a military outpost since the days of the 60 year Caste War that began back in the 1840s but the military is still here and now it is to control the drug gangs or “narcos” as they are now known in Mexico.
Our first night in town we find a superbly located hotel in the city center. The bare-bones basic San José is definitely not scrubbed to death but boasts cable T.V., hammock hooks and indoor first floor bicycle parking. We off-load our packs and venture out in search of the best meal in town.
This cocina económica in the city center did not cater to tourism but provided us with a huge ration of frijol charros or pork and beans. In a cocina económica usually only one dish is prepared each day and when it is depleted, they close. You have the choice of eating in or carry out. Most of the trade is carry-out and nearly every Yucatecan home relies on a neighborhood cocina económica.
This is our frijol charros or pork and beans that come with all the tortillas you want.
From Peto this lovely little paved bicycle path leads out of town to a very quiet back road that will take you to Xoy, Chaksinkin, Tixmehuac and finally Tekax. This is a lovely jungle route past ancient haciendas, tranquil Mayan villages and intriguing missions, which Jane and I plan to do soon. Richard Perry’s book Mayan Missions is a good field guide on this route.
Perry gives a lengthy description about the, Virgen de la Estrella, “Peto” church but was not as impressed as we were. Jane and I found this to be one of the most formidable and massive ornate examples of dedicated attention to detail that we have encountered in Yucatan. You must come and pass your own judgment.
From the choir loft some perspective can be gained of the mammoth size of this structure that is nearly four meters thick. The Mayan temple that the materials were salvaged from had to be colossal. Recent restoration work has been carefully done but is still lacking.
The following photos were taken from the dizzying height of the roof top and I get dizzy with thick socks on!
Looking east from the church roof top you will see near the center of the photo behind the ball court a structure that was part of this church complex and it by itself consumed a monumental amount of building materials. Below is a close-up of that structure that gives the appearance of being built just to consume tons of stone.
Nearly four meters thick walls still stand but the roof has long ago returned to the earth.
Looking south west from the church roof you can easily discern the Puuc hills near to the town of Tekax far off in the distance. The above jungle previously consisted of zapote trees from which the chicle for chewing gum was extracted. The fruit of this tree is wonderfully savory and also known as custard apple. Those lovely trees whose wood is among the hardest and most enduring of all woods of the world became too irresistible for the greedy timber barons who have harvested then almost to extinction.
Looking down the roof you get a perspective scale of size with Jane at the other end.
Peering down from the base of the bell tower on the front façade, the altitude is apparent.
Looking west across the zocolo park the view of tree tops is far below.
This is downtown Peto’s business district where motor vehicles are in the minority.
As you can see Jane and I go to great lengths to get these interesting photos especially when you consider that I get dizzy with thick socks on.
This building represents a huge amount of rock and when you consider that all of the building materials previously went to build a Mayan temple and were taken down and then reconstructed into this colossal church; the back breaking man hours of toil becomes unfathomable.
The church is named; “Virgen de la Estrella” or virgin of the star and for this reason the façade is adorned with numerous stars like this one that perforates the wall.
This is where some of the lumber from Peto’s zapote forest wound up. These ancient hand hewn steps form a spiral staircase leading from here at the roof top all the way down to ground level.
After a few turns going down this spiral staircase it is as dark as being in a closet with the door closed and we had to feel our way along in the pitch darkness trusting that the steps were all there and well. This photo was taken with a flash and so we got a look at what we couldn’t see in the dark.
I found this Christ with his crown of thorns most curiously wearing a silk lace trimmed mini slip. There just has to be some convoluted story behind this.
Seated with me is Isabel Tec Canto the helpful and friendly church warden and the man who opened the doors to Jane and I so that we could take all those lovely roof top photos.
A recently restored side chapel complete with ancient wooden vigas; roof beams.
This must be a modern innovation, smokeless electric candles that you light by inserting a coin directly into the coin-slot…how very clever conserving all that wax.
Peto’s population turns out in mass for community functions like this cheer-leader competition that lasted several hours with loud speakers blasting everyone senseless.
The following are jewels of the jungle we encountered on a short side trip from Peto to the town of Ichmul where you are even less likely to find tourists. Ichmul is covered in the next post.

MÉRIDA SOUTH BY BIKE ON CALLE 42

Leaving Mérida and heading south by bicycle we have found the quietest route, not necessarily the fastest, taking you through an assortment of interesting neighborhoods. Even from the north of the city you can be out past the “periferico” or rim route overpass in less than an hour poking along at a leisurely pace. There are only five stop lights the entire length of calle 42, but scores of “topes”, speed bumps, which we easily glide over on our slow moving bikes.
Calle 42 may not be an interesting trip by car but by bicycle neat shopping places like this simple little sidewalk shop will conveniently fill your traveling needs.
One hour of biking will take you out of the city and two more hours to Acanceh or Tecoh. Convenient return transportation is no problem with folding bicycles from any of the cities you see on the above map. The optional (red) routes are all on quiet roads.
This is a very historical map reproduced from a British Admiralty chart dating 1840. It was used by John L. Stephens on his epic expedition of exploration when he and his partner Catherwood journeyed across Yucatán visiting the Mayan ruins and making priceless sketches of the peninsula. The classic book Stephens wrote, Incidents of Travel in Yucatan is still in print and we consider it one of our all-time favorites and a must read.
This 1840 chart was three hundred years after the Spanish conquest and just a few years before the catastrophic Caste War broke out. John L. Stephens’s route is overdrawn in blue and the bold print names represent places where they made sketches. One very significant thing to be noted from the above chart is the conspicuous lack of highways and designated roads.
Remember that this was the beginning of the industrial revolution and steam power had not yet reached Yucatán.
Another interesting thing of note is the fact that the very straight roads in use at that time were built by the ancient Maya and were still in use by the Spanish who wrecked the smooth paved surfaces with their wheeled carts.
Well, believe it or not Jane and I were amazed as we made this bike tour that our excursion took us on the exact same route as John L. Stephens took one hundred and seventy years earlier. We rode the now paved ancient Mayan sacbe roads where the neatly cut side stones are still visible after countless centuries of use.
Here in John L. Stephens own words from his epic book; Incidents of Travel in Yucatan is an excerpt describing his departure from Mérida and journey south, the exact same road that Jane and I had bicycled;
Pages 65, 66, 67, 68; subject 1842 trip to Tekoh 8 leagues from Mérida.

It was our intention to resume our exploration at Uxmal, the point where we were interrupted by the illness of Mr. Catherwood. We had received intelligence, however, of the ruins of Mayapan, an ancient city which had never been visited, about eight leagues from Mérida, and but a few leagues aside from our road, by the haciendas, to Uxmal. The account which we could obtain were meager, and it was represented as completely in ruins; but, in fulfillment of our purpose we at that time entertained going to every place of which we heard any account whatever, we determined to visit this on our way to Uxmal. It was for Mayapan therefore, that we were now setting out.
Our saddles, Bridles, holsters, and pistols, being entirely different from the mountings of horsemen in that country, attracted all eyes as we rode through the streets. A friend accompanying us beyond the suburbs, and put us into a straight road, which led, without turning, to the end of the days journey. Instead of the ominous warnings we were accustom to in Central America, his parting words were, that there was no danger of robbers, or any other interruptions.
…I would remark that no map of Yucatan at all to be depended on has ever been published…
At a distance of a league we passed a fine cattle hacienda, and at twenty minutes past one reached Timucui, (on modern maps spelled Timucuy), a small village five leagues from Mérida. The village consisted of a few Indian huts, built around a large open square, and on one side was a shed for a casa real. It had no church or cura, and already we experienced a difficulty which we did not expect to encounter so soon. The population consisted entirely of Indians, who in general throughout the country speak nothing but Maya; there was not a white man in the place, nor anyone who could  speak in any tongue that we could comprehend. Fortunately, a muleteer from the interior, on his way to Mérida, had stopped to bait his mules under the shade of a large tree, and was swinging in a hammock in the casa real. He was surprised at our undertaking along a journey into the interior, seeing that we were brought to a stand at the first village from the capitol; but, finding us somewhat rational in other respects, he assisted us in procuring ramon leaves and water for our horses. His life had been passed in driving mules from a region of country called the Sierra, to the capitol; but he had heard strange stories about foreign countries, and, among others, that in El Norte a man could earn a dollar a day by his labor; but he was comforted when he learned that a real in his country was worth more to him than a dollar would be in ours; and as he interrupted to his nearly naked companions, crouching in the shade, nothing touched them so nearly as the idea of cold and frost, and spending a great portion of a day’s earnings for fuel to keep from freezing.
At three o’clock we left the hamlet, and at a little after four we saw the towers of the church of Tekoh. (On recent maps spelled Tecoh)

In the following captioned photos you will visit those haciendas and interesting seldom visited towns that we biked through following the route of Stephens and Catherwood.
Our first stop 5 kilometers south of the periferico is the silent little Tahdzibihén park.
Haciendas and ranchos along our way are quietly reminding us of this area’s history.
The straight old Mayan sacbe road beds are still functional and used to this day and as you can see there is a conspicuous lack of motor vehicles. The city noise is left behind.
This is biker’s paradise with almost no traffic and absolutely no stop lights.
These little road side chapels are a remnant of the days of the Caste War when the Maya broke away from Spanish domination and salvaged what was left of their ancient traditional religions and commingled it with Catholicism. For more about the Cult of the Santa Cruz, check our blog: http://bicycleyucatan.blogspot.com/2008/02/cob-to-valladolid.html
Speaking of spin-off commingled religions this house is adorned with just about every possibility to fend off evil spirits. With three types of Mayan crosses, the green, triple and stone they even have the Zionist star and for good measure the political party logo to boot! Check out the no frills 15 amp electrical service entrance next to the door.
This tranquil little town of Tekik de Regil seems to be waiting for something to happen but little of consequence will take place until eleven o’clock when this molino opens to crank out hot tortillas for the mid-day meal. Yucatecan dogs do not sleep in the sun.
From the heyday of the henequen era in 1908 when Yucatan was awash in money for the privileged few this decadent hacienda church was put up in this poverty stricken little town. The architect that was brought in for this job also did the main concert hall in downtown Mérida.
This is the business end of the hacienda where the machinery that processed the raw product of henequen into sisal rope needed in the WWI war effort rained in untold wealth.
We are out in the country here at the silent diminutive town of Timucuy about six kilometers from our original planned destination of Acanceh or Tecoh. We are very flexible on these out-of-town pleasure trips and only influenced by the wind direction and heat of the day. Well, the temperature was lovely but the wind was on the nose so we naturally did what was necessary and slowed down. The net result was that when our pre-determined turn around time came at ten AM this is where we were.
After leaving Mérida it is a welcome relief to come to a place that is so laid-back that the only noise comes from chirping birds. Being bicyclers we naturally enjoy places with no pushy-shovey traffic or smoky-noisy motorized vehicles. After Mérida these nearly vehicle free towns are almost shockingly quiet.
In front of the Timucuy church and across from the central town plaza Jane and I enjoy our morning iced coffee under the shade a kind old tree situated in the middle of the boulevard. This is just wonderful and well worth the effort.
When our coffee was finished the Mérida bus pulled into the plaza, we boarded and 30 minutes later we disembarked in downtown Mérida. We were home for lunch completing a 40 kilometer bike ride and a spirited bus trip back. (The TV in the bus didn’t work.)

Mani Field Trip starting in Oxkutzcab

MANI FIELD TRIP STARTING AT OXKUTZCAB BY BIKE AND BUS, MARCH 2008 and later joining the Maya Studies Group and the Hispanic Culture Group of the IWC of Merida at Mani.
Recent additions to the streets of Oxkutzcab are these motorized three-wheel taxis. Somehow the quiet easy-going Colonial town is falling into the mechanized world of hydrocarbon combustion.

However lunch is cooked over a leña or firewood by Roque Burgos a native of the nearby small Puuc hill town of Xul. The tiny crossroads settlement of Xul is steeped in Yucatan history from the early conquistadors to the hacienda era. The explorer and author John L. Stephens mentions Xul and its unique history in his 1842 book Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, pages 54 and 55.
Immaculate, pleasant, delicious and generous describes our lunch spot.
The façade of the Oxkutzcab San Francisco church recently renovated.
Oxkutzcab church is written up with interesting and factual information in a must read book called Maya Missions by Richard and Rosalind Perry.
For a concise informative look at Yucatan history that is well documented and to the point plus an indispensable travel guide, you will do yourself a favor reading this book before and while you visit Yucatan, one of the most interesting places on planet earth.
Perry’s book Maya Missions does such an informative job of describing such things as this above retablo and all of the aspects of churches of Yucatan that I will not duplicate his effort here but encourage you to own that indispensable book.
You will spend hours investigating these incredible chronological works of art that fill countless churches, monasteries and missions all across the Yucatan intertwined with Mayan and Spanish historical times gone by.
The above retablo is but one of several in this meticulously maintained and well restored Oxkutzcab church.
Evening dinner in the central market across from our hotel is worthy of praise and these tamales horneado or tamales that are corn meal wrapped chicken baked in banana leaves, then spiced with a tangy tomato sauce make for a Mayan cuisine .
You must be at the market at the right time in the early to enjoy these delights because when the inventory is exhausted the venders pack up and head home.
This is the Oxkutzcab market in early morning before the overwhelming hustle and bustle begins. The tri-cycle taxi drivers wait the oncoming business day when they will not only transport passengers but huge high stacked crates of fruit and vegetables.
The marked activity begins and Jane and I will mingle with the natives and have a typical Yucatecan breakfast of chicken salbutes, which are freshly fried hand made corn tortillas topped with lettuce, tomato and shredded chicken meat…varieties of hot sauce are provided and you can apply it at your own discretion…as they say in Yucatan…kill yourself. All sauces are not created equally and the prudent diner will carefully sample a very small portion before sloshing it over his meal.
Our hot chili tolerance is at stratospheric levels that would kill the average Norwegian.
The following two photos are representative portions of a large panoramic mural that adorns the entry to the Oxkutzcab municipal market and realistically depicts events and happenings that take place here daily.

After our market breakfast Jane and I leisurely cycle the beautiful country road connecting Oxkutzcab with the town of Mani where we will rendezvous for an informative lecture on early Yucatan history and Spanish church art.
Long early morning shadows cast beguiling shade upon this ancient hacienda entrance.
Little Mani is situated out of the tourist loop and off the main highway so it is amazingly quiet and peaceful. Jane and I are two hours early for the lecture and as usual will have the dubious distinction of being the only participants to arrive using only bicycles and bus transport. A nameless bust adorns the clean little Mani park.
This is the freshly painted municipal building that sports the colors of the winners of the last state elections. The edifice has been reputed to have been the home of the Xiu family who sided with the Spanish to overthrow their Mayan neighbors. It doesn’t take too much unscrutinizing to deduce that this building did not date from the pre-conquest era because of the Moorish architectural design and mamposteria constructed roof with its steel beams.
The Mani church is a collective cache of artwork that intertwines Mayan and Spanish influences like this 16th century cross depicting a stocky Mayan figure. Restored after Revolutionary War damage and moved from its original place in the adjacent open Indian chapel it has attained historical significance now that the Mayan population uses the main church. The Spanish used Mayan stone sculptors.
Seated in the passage room between the old open chapel and the newer main church are these local Mayan women who still chose to dress in their age old traditional native huipil dress. Our little folding bikes conveniently get us around the world.
Art historian and lecturer, Estela Keim presents an incredibly well researched presentation on the auto de fe of 1562 as well as Yucatan church art as our group of 25 gathers in the old open Indian chapel dating from 1580.

Mayan studies leader and author of Dreaming of the Maya Fifth Sun, Lennie Martin lectures on Mani and its historical significance before, during and after the Spanish conquest.
The lecture group adjourns to the main church where Estela Keim further fascinates us with the historical significance of this art that reflects the monumental happenings of the Spanish and their religious connections to the old and new world.
I will not attempt to describe these splendid retablos and other art works that adorn the Mani church because Richard Perry does such a magnificent job of it in his book; Mayan Missions.
When the history and significance of these ancient art works are known, the trip to Mani to witness them first hand becomes an imperative.
Ironically behind these impeccably kept retablos are located painted frescos that date back to the churches early days and have been preserved and recorded by a Mexican governmental agency.
These priceless treasures span the centuries with historical significance.
This ornate little side altar crafted on the late 1600s also conceals a retablo.

Here above this gilded back altar retablo that is unequaled in any Mexican art work of the period is a visible example of the fabulous fresco paintings that obviously adorned the entire church at one time.
Art historian Estela Keim dramatically adds a personal touch to her informative presentation, having studied extensively in Spain even learning the archaic Spanish in order to advance her extensive knowledge of this subject.
Take a close look at the intricate detail that adorns these historically significant retablos each conveying a momentous story that we had the good fortune to have explained to us by our informative guide Estela.
Archangel Michael high upon the west facade was an 18th century addition.
On the south side of this flat two-block square raised Mayan mound the crumbling remains of this mid-1500s Spanish arch is adorned by a recent Guadalupe icon.
On the east side of this Mayan two block square raised flat platform is located the two story convent and garden all part of the Mani church complex…this side is seldom seen by visitors.
The “eco-tour of two” sets out to roll home again after another intriguing and informative Yucatan adventure here in the land of mysterious and haunting history.
For photos of the Field trip with the IWC of Merida, click here to take you to the album.

NOTE; A BRIEF CONQUEST HISTORY OF YUCATAN
Because Yucatan possessed no riches, only the lowest forms of Spanish strata wound up there.
After numerous feeble batched attempts to establish a beachhead in Yucatan, by 1535 every last Spaniard was summarily driven out of the peninsula.
Using the unscrupulous invasion tactics of Hernán Cortés in exploiting tribal feuds to divide and plunder, Montejo and his rag-tag band returned to Yucatan putting the Mayan family Xiu against Cocom. Behind the scenes they used a confidence game on both sides to rile up bloody hostilities that worked marvelously coupled with invading micro-organisms that ravaged diseases of European origin and brought down more indigenous than all of Spain’s combined military might could have even remotely hoped for.
After the fall of Mérida, (T’ho), Oxkutzcab and Mani were next…Mani then becoming the first center of Spanish power in Yucatan.
Three centuries of brutal enslaved servitude passed before the Maya again stood up to the Spanish in the 60 year Caste War. After the Caste War came the bloody Mexican Revolution annihilating one in eight Mexicans.
“Peaceful places have no history.”
Recommended reading;
Ambivalent Conquests by Inga Clendinnen
Incidents of Travel in Yucatan by John L. Stephens
The Caste War of Yucatan by Nelson Reed
Maya Missions by Richard and Rosalind Perry
Time Among the Maya by Ronald Wright
Genesis by Eduardo Galeano
Open Veins by Eduardo Galeano